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Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete, by Steve House Scott Johnston
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Review
A must-have for anyone looking to optimize their time in the mountains—from guides throwing up new routes to weekend warriors getting into a new sport. coolhunting.comThe book's easy-to-use format and scaleable training programs are accessible for anyone looking to improve their fitness through a new approach. coolhunting.com
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About the Author
Steve House is a world renowned climber, mountain guide, and Patagonia Ambassador, widely regarded for his light-and-fast style. He has published articles in a number of periodicals, and he is the author of Beyond the Mountains (Patagonia Books, 2009). He lives in Ridgway, CO.Scott Johnston, who grew up in Boulder, CO, has ski raced on a national and international level and is an avid climber. He currently coaches several of the nation's top cross country skiers, and climbs, establishing local climbing routes in and around his home town of Mazama, WA, in the North Cascades, where he lives.Mark Twight has applied the light-and-fast tactics he first developed in Europe to climbs ranging from the Himalayas to Alaska. Mark is the author of two books: Extreme Alpinism - Climbing Light, Fast and High and Kiss or Kill - Confessions of a Serial Climber. He is the founder of GymJones.
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Product details
Paperback: 464 pages
Publisher: Patagonia (March 18, 2014)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 193834023X
ISBN-13: 978-1938340239
Product Dimensions:
7.5 x 1 x 10 inches
Shipping Weight: 3 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.8 out of 5 stars
157 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#10,226 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
This is an outstanding, thorough, well done training manual for the mountaineer/alpinist. I've read it twice now, and it was even better the second time. It is not a "how to climb" book, that teaches you the knots, steps, and moves, or even a "climbing training" book, in the sense of teaching how to do on-the-rock or on-the-ice training the local rock gym or crag. There are several superb books on those subjects (Gadd's, Houston & Cosley's, Horst's, Long's, Leubben's, and more). House & Johnston is different: this book teaches you how to optimize your fitness for climbing, alpine climbing in particular, i.e., to put "more climber" behind the skills you have. The orientation is for both mountaineering and technical alpine projects - whether your goal is winter 14ers, classic alpine routes, Ruth Gorge classics, Andean or Himalayan giants, or anything within that general spectrum of casual outdoor recreation, this is your state of the art training Bible. And Lord knows, they deliver the gospel and deliver it well. House and Johnston know their stuff, from the theoretical and biological underpinnings of fitness They dispatch the tired and too-often said "just go climbing" - no athlete interested in maximizing performance "just goes climbing/running/riding." It takes more. But "more" does not just mean more often, or harder, or longer. This book tells you what "more" means - it is a thorough explanation of what the physical demands of alpine climbing actually are, what the science tells us about the best ways to train those capacities, and how to put all that together into an executable program. What, when, how much, how often, how long, how heavy, how hard . . . ALL the information you need to get in the best conditions your genes and environment allow is all there. Their treatment of aerobic capacity - why it is so crucial for what we do, and how and how NOT to organize your training to improve it - is worth the price alone. The book has many more real gems that you can put to use immediately: an "Alpine Combine," ala the famous NFL player evaluation combine,that serves as a handy means to assess and grade general fitness; a terrific, do-anywhere core sequence that lives up to its "Killer" name; weighted pullup, hill sprint, and loaded hiking cycles that are worth their weight in gold for the "bang for the buck" they deliver. Even the strength training information is stellar. I say "even," because, as a strength coach myself, I'm often disappointed or shaking my head at the mediocre, phoned-in strength prescriptions in most training-for-a-sport books. I shake it just as often at the currently popular "Crossfit" and its various knockoffs, all of which will make an unfit person much fitter, but all of which, at the same time, amount mostly to "working out to get better at our workouts," which is a far cry from working out to get better at climbing mountains. Not a deficiency here - the strength training information and advice in this book has a clear purpose (strengthen and toughen your musculoskeletal system to execute and withstand the demands of alpinism). House & Johnston lay out the stuff that works, the stuff that is relevant to our game, without cool but ultimately useless gym tricks. You don't have to do Olympic squat snatches, muscle ups on rings, or anything else that would make you ask yourself "Why am I doing this again?" You will be box stepping, leg raising, pulling on tools, etc. - if you have ever climbed anything technical and hard, you will know exactly why you are doing what you are doing. House & Johnston include a very solid menu of general strength exercises, good, clear instructions for those exercises, and some atypical movements that are highly climbing specific. Their strength programming guidance - the loads, sets, and reps that produce specific kinds of strength or strength endurance - are dead solid perfect. No lazy "three sets of 15-20 reps" drivel: they understand, provide, and explain the full complement of strength work needed (depending on the phase of training or goal), including circuits for preparatory or work capacity development, max strength sessions, and strength endurance work - all useful, all of which must be trained in very different kinds of workouts. Planning and programming information is similarly good, but has a distinct "major race" focus. House and Johnston are strong advocates for block periodization - spending sequential blocks of 2-5 months on specific components of fitness, leading to an overarching, major climb. The premise and prescribed approach is similar to, for example, the ideal training one would do for an Ironman, the Boston Marathon, or a championship meet in any similar sport - basically organizing the entire year toward one big audacious goal. That makes their specific planning prescriptions most suitable to climbers who build toward one or perhaps two major climbs or expeditions each year. If you are going to a big range for a bucket-list climb, this is exactly how to be in the best shape of your life for that trip - and why you need to begin that training about a year out. The book is less specific for one whose goal is closer to "high fitness year round." The authors point out, accurately, that it is impossible to be in your absolute best shape all the time - you have to build to that, and peak for it, and they show precisely how. But it would be a mistake to regard this book's value as limited to "training for an expedition." The concepts and workouts can easily be modified and used, in my opinion, by people who are less oriented around some huge annual or semi-annual project, and instead need to stay at a high level of fitness for various climbs and tick lists over their summer rock, shoulder alpine, and winter ice seasons. The authors' base and strength-endurance periods, for example, can be melded into an undulating periodization scheme that varies emphasis and exercise mode by the season, with transitions and 2-3 month builds toward the longer or more important climbs on the calendar. Some of us know how to do that, but I suspect others don't, and I'd like to see House & Johnston in the second edition include at least a chapter for the climber who isn't necessarily preparing for THE BIG CLIMB, but wants to stay in great shape over the course of a typical year and knock out a couple or three dozen significant alpine, ice or rock climbs during that year. Those folks, too, can be much fitter, and climb much better and more safely than if they "just go climbing" and practice random acts of exercise. Would love to see these authors comment on how they would organize the training of the avid weekend or twice-a-month alpinist across the seasons. Climbers will also appreciate their solid, no-nonsense nutrition section, which provides solid guidance on performance eating during training and on climbs. What they say works, every time, as opposed to "diets with names," which are hit or miss at best, and may work for Jill but not for Jane, and many of which border on stupid for an alpine athlete. Bottom line: Terrific book, well written, well organized, given the breadth of subject covered, and lavishly "iced" with relevant stories and sidebars from many of alpinism's leading lights and superb action photos. If you train to climb mountains, especially big challenging ones, where superb conditioning is a necessity more than a luxury, buy this book.
Bought this book before attempting Mt. Shasta and Mt. Rainier. I have a bit of experience with hiking 14ers and a lot of experience backpacking multiple day trips. All the info in this book is great, and the explanations of why to train their way makes sense. Not just for climbing, there are a lot of specific exercises to do for climbing, but I think any long outdoor endurance sport can use the info in this book. Their approach is nice, especially for people like me, where I have a small amount of experience but most of the things in this book they discuss will really hammer home how important it is to train, not just exercise. For the last year(s) I've subscribed to the HIIT 4x4 type programs. This book doesn't have much good to say about that approach. Their exercise plans are built on decades(or centuries) old methods that have worked for athletes way above my level and so should also work for me. Their exercise plans are very flexible and most of the effort to figuring out how much effort and time to put in is up to you, but that's a Pro in my book, and after a good 7 months of training I'll know how well the exercises worked. Will update the review at that time, after comparing to my comrades who are doing the "new" style of training.
I've been an amateur climber/mountaineer for 20 years now. I haven't been as active over the last 10 years with career and family duties, but I'm slowly getting back into it. I've found that after a decade of significantly reduced activity that its very difficult to train without hurting myself. This book doesn't really address this issue directly, but it gives a good overview of how to train in general so that you are alert and aware of the quality of your workouts so that you can make adjustments as necessary to prevent injury. It also gives you a realistic outlook on how long and gradual the training process really is. I can't do what I did in my 20's, which was basically train for a month, climb the mountain, and then let my body heal from all the damage I did in the process.I've always wondered why some mountains went better than others. After reading this book it has become very clear to me what I did right training for certain mountains and what I've done wrong on others. It's all about developing that aerobic base, but in this book it shows you how to really build that aerobic base far beyond anything I've done before by coupling the aerobic training with max strength training. I have not gotten to that part of the training program yet and I'm a little nervous about how my joints will hold up moving that type of strength training. The book definitely seems more catered to alpinists that are already in excellent shape.I bought this book a couple months ago and am on week 6 now of my tranisition period. My one complaint about this book is the starting volume one should begin with in their transition period is poorly described. For example, I estimated I trained about 5 hours per week last year, which works out to about 260 hours. This is slightly above what they estimate for working professionals. In the transition period it is suggested that we divide our training volume by 2 to get the number of hours per week that we train during transition. That works out to 2.5 hours per week, which isn't much. The strength training workouts last about 45 minutes for me and at twice a week that only leaves one hour for aerobic training, which is supposed to be where we're spending the bulk of our time. I found a post on [...]where someone asks this question. Scott Johnston answered the question and said that 2.5 hours was not very much and he was wondering why someone would need to exercise that little. He did say that if one were to exercise that little each week then you would not count your strength training sessions towards your training time each week. He did clarify that it's very subjective what your initial training volume should be. However, the subjectivity here becomes so overwhelming that it is extremely difficult to determine a starting point. It would be helpful if there was a little more direction for the non-professional climber.Overall though most of this book is excellent and will help assist the amateur climber to accomplish things that they once thought were only attainable when they were younger and missed the boat. For someone pushing 40 I find this book to be very encouraging as I now feel there is a way to train where my chances of getting injured are minimized. I would highly recommend this book to anyone I know that is serious about alpinism.
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